Denim Guide

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The Esquire Guide to Denim

Everyone has that one pair. You may own others, stacked yea high in a drawer in so many shades of blue, but when jeans are an option, you probably head straight for that one pair. They damn well better fit. They shouldn’t sag in the seat or crotch, and they shouldn’t flare out like some twisted Travolta flashback -- they should form to your contours like a good sweater. Also, make sure they’re blue. You’ve got options, lots of them, so try for a medium blue, a shade like this that works for day and night. Rivets and stitching must be kept to a minimum, embellishments approached with extreme caution, and pockets limited to five. If you can find all this in one $40 pair, pat yourself on the back and buy three more just like them. If, however, you can’t seem to find a great pair for less than $200, don’t sweat it. You really only need that one pair.

Four Pairs, Four Prices

Buzz up!We break down the difference between denim at four different prices. Here’s what to expect when you’re spending . . .


$50
What You’re Getting: Denim that’s been hand-rubbed, distressed with sand, and machine washed with enzymes and other dyes.
What You’re Not: Since their straight fit has been designed to accommodate a wide range of body types, it might take longer to find a pair that fits just right.

$98
What You’re Getting: Details like whiskers on the hip and sanding patterns on the thigh. Also, notice the seam abrasions, which add a few years to the jeans’ look.
What You’re Not: Simplicity. The more expensive the jeans, the more likely they’ll have ornate detailing and stitching. For some folks, that’s good; for others, not so much.

$210
What You’re Getting: Distressing and special washing that make for weathered color. Plus, Adidas and Diesel logos on the pockets and the interior of the ankle.
What You’re Not: Authenticity. You won’t find many real cowboys in $200 jeans, but unless you’re a real cowboy, who cares?

$440
What You’re Getting: Japanese selvage denim, the most coveted denim in the world. The jeans also contain a tiny percentage of stretchy material, meaning they’ll fit your body better than pure cotton.
What You’re Not: A bargain.

Three Ways to Wear Denim

Buzz up!What to pair your jeans with when you’re dressed casually, when you’re dressed for work, or when you’re wearing leather. Because you can’t go out in just jeans.

The Endorsement: The Unadorned Back Pocket

Buzz up!What have we done to inflict appliqués and stitching patterns on our back pockets? An impassioned plea for the return of the unembellished pocket.

A man in the market for a fresh pair of blue jeans will encounter three categories of peculiar modern-day embellishments: 1) manufactured scuffs, 2) pre-wrinkled zones at the top of the thighs and behind the knees, and 3) creative back-pocket stitchery.

Regarding number 3: What the hell?

Somewhere along the line, the back pocket became a means of expression, a designer’s playground. And it became a marketing tool, a way for brands to distinguish themselves. Appliqués, organic flourishes, intricately patterned landscapes of string and fabric. General whimsy.

On our asses, it should be noted, gentlemen. Our asses.

Maybe you’re into elaborate back-pocket decoration. Maybe you’re that kind of guy. Maybe you’re also into ironing your jeans. Maybe you’re from Denmark. I suspect that you aren’t. I suspect you consider the Levi Strauss and Co.’s flying-eagle pattern (b. 1873) to be as loud a message as you want the seat of your pants to deliver. For you, the subtle back pocket — that functional, innocuous denim envelope for your wallet — is a beautiful and increasingly rare thing (though it exists if you look hard enough).
And it’s an elegant thing. It’s a symbol of restraint, dignity, masculinity. In this age of embellishment, it’s a quiet protest. Also, no whimsy.